Solitude at Farney Lake

[uinta_eagle]

My family has owned a cabin on the North Fork of the Duchesne River for over forty years. The cabin is near the Grandview Trailhead, which is probably the heaviest used trailhead in the range. I’ve spent many days over the years hiking the trail to the Grandaddy Basin. Those trips have usually included heavy interaction with other hikers, plenty of scout troops, horse packers, dogs and mosquitos.

I enjoy backpacking as an escape from a career that gives me a lot more social interaction than I need. Truthfully, I am a natural loner and actually prefer a few solo walkabouts in the wilderness every year. One of my favorite authors, Jack Kerouac shared my philosophy when he wrote:

No man should go through life without once experiencing healthy, even bored solitude in the wilderness, finding himself depending solely on himself and thereby learning his true and hidden strength.​

So, I try to avoid the Grandaddy Basin during busy periods (July and August) and have recently settled into a routine of scheduling a short visit in late June. I also enjoy the spectacle of thousands of native cutthroat trout spawning in the inlet streams at about this same time each year. In most years, this means there is still a lot of snow and ice in the area. But this generally means very few people and no bugs. I can be equally irritated by sharing a lake with either.

This year, the snow melted early and I had a feeling that there might be a few more people in the area than I like to see, so I attempted to research an isolated corner of the basin where I could spend some “alone” time. I found the following described in one of the old DWR fishing pamphlets for the Duchesne River Drainage. Farney Lake sounded like just the ticket:

Farney Lake is located in rocky, timbered country at the head of Marsell Canyon. It is 12.6 acres, 10,320 feet in elevation, with 14 feet maximum depth. The northern lake margin abuts a large boulder field. Access is 5 miles north of the Grand View Trailhead on the Grandaddy Trail to Fish Hatchery Lake and then 1/2 mile west through downed timber with no trail. Farney can also be reached by following Marsell Canyon Creek southeast for 3 miles from the Duchesne River Trail above the East Portal of the Duchesne Tunnel. Camping areas are available, but horse feed is scarce. Spring water can be obtained at the lake. Farney is stocked with Arctic grayling and may winterkill on occasion. Fishing use is light.​

I was intrigued by the description stating, “1/2 mile west through downed timber with no trail,” and made my plans to leave the trailhead on June 28 for an overnight trip. There was some difference of opinion on the existence of a trail, as I also found this information at another web site during my research:

Just before you reach Fish Hatchery you will also see another trail leading to Farney Lake, 0.6 mile away. There are some fine camping sites around Farney Lake…​

Regardless, the promise of "fine camping sites" and "spring water" had me convinced that this would be my home for the weekend. I also wanted to scout a possible route for a future hike. Having our family cabin in the area, I have long been intrigued by the possibility of a “grand loop” hike starting at Grandview Trailhead, heading north through Grandaddy Basin and eventually returning to the cabin on the Duchesne River Trail that begins near Mirror Lake and descends all the way to the dirt road just above our cabin.

I wanted to reach Farney Lake and then scout down the Marsell Canyon Creek as a possible descent route to get me to the Duchesne River. On a map, this route looks promising...like it could be accomplished in a single day-hike.



I was soon navigating the narrow dirt road above the North Fork canyon and admiring the awesome morning views.


Grandview Trailhead was definitely busier than I have ever seen it in June. Being a Saturday, I hoped that many of these folks would be leaving soon.


The Grandview Trail is actually a very easy hike - despite the rocky switchbacks at the beginning of the route that always take a toll.



I was soon topped out on the level and made good time to Hades Pass. I was surprised to find no snow on top.


The first glimpse of Grandaddy Lake is one of my favorite views in nature.



I left the trail just above Grandaddy to follow the stream down and was soon finding pools of spawning cutthroat.


The closer I got to the inlet at the lake, the thicker the trout became.


I'm always amazed at the shallow riffles and water falls that these trout are able to negotiate as they swim upstream.


As I neared the lake, the fish were packed in tight.


Soon the inlet and Grandaddy Lake came into view, and for a moment I just took in the wild beauty...


Then I looked to my right down the shore line... Ugh. I was very happy with my pre-planning and decision not to camp here.


I continued past Grandaddy and am happy to report that after passing the junction that goes on to Betsy Lake I ran into ZERO other campers or fisherman until I was on my way out the next day!


This is Betsy Lake as I passed by on the trail. My son and I camped in the trees across the lake last year at this time. We found a really nice and secluded spot in the trees that go up almost to the saddle in the lower right of the picture.



I soon reached Fish Hatchery Lake and was actually tempted to stay here, since I hadn't seen any people after leaving the Betsy Lake area.


I decided to stick with my original plan and ended up bushwacking 1/2 mile through downed timber as the DWR pamphlet described. I scouted around heavily and never found any sign that a trail ever existed.


Farney Lake soon came into view. The DWR pamphlet is also correct in describing this as "rocky, timbered country."


I walked completely around the lake and never found the springs or "fine camping sites" that I had read about in my planning research! My drinking water ended up being filtered from the lake.



After considerable searching, I did finally locate a suitable site to set up on a ridge about 200 yards above the lake on the southeast side.



I was actually quite happy to find no established camp sites, no old fire rings, no garbage, and really no sign that anybody else had visited recently... It was my perfect spot. The top of Marsell canyon begins in the area seen across the lake below. It looks like a good option to descend to the Duchesne River from here, so I may be back in the future to attempt my loop hike.



In all, it was a marvelous trip. I found the solitude I was looking for, I slept wonderfully, and enjoyed a nice solo walkabout that accomplished a complete deep-cycle recharge on my batteries!

The person who has not learned to be happy and content while completely alone for an hour, a day, or a week has missed life’s greatest serenity. -H. Clay Tate
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[Clint_N]

That first shot is a beautiful scene and I really appreciate the two quotes you included, thanks.

 

[Eugene]

Was up in this area - Granddaddy basin - in Aug 2013 and never saw any fish! Looks like you had gorgeous weather. We had a bit of rain every day - only one day though did it force us into our tents for the afternoon.

 

[Bob]

Your pic at the TH and the one of people at the lake reminded me why I usually stay out of the Uintas. Farney Lk looks nice though.....but any fish? Cool pics of the spawners, way neat when you see them.

 

[uinta_eagle]

Thanks Clint and Eugene! It was beautiful weather the entire time and few bugs... although more than usual for late June.

Your pic at the TH and the one of people at the lake reminded me why I usually stay out of the Uintas. Farney Lk looks nice though.....but any fish? Cool pics of the spawners, way neat when you see them.

Yes... parts of the Uintas suffer from crowded conditions, but I've found I can usually find areas (or times) where I can be totally alone!

I didn't take any fishing gear with me , but saw no evidence of fish in Farney. I sat by the lake in the evening and again early in the morning (filtering water) and saw nothing rising to the surface either time.

 

[Nick]

Very cool. I've avoided the Grandaddy Basin area but it is good to see there are pockets of solitude to be found. It's starting to look like I may not even see the high country this year if I don't get my work hikes wrapped up soon. This makes me want to cut out for a weekend and do it anyway.

 

[Devo]

The Granddaddy basin was my first backpack trip in high school and I have been in love ever since. Thanks for the post!

 

[andyjaggy]

I always find it pretty easy to find solitude in the Uintas. Simply head to an unnamed lake and you will most likely find it. This past weekend while I was up there the Mirror Lake highway was a complete zoo, but a quick 45 minute walk to Hayden Lake put me all by myself for the entire afternoon.

 

[Laura]

Very cool trip! This is the best quote on solitude I've ever found, you might enjoy it. From Doug Peacock, and yes, I know I've posted it before but I'm going to do it again:

"Don't just bang down the trail thinking about your girlfriend or your stock portfolio. Go like another animal. All of a sudden you're part of an ancient system again: You stop, listen more often, scent the wind. And after four or five days, something happens. You're part of the original landscape, a far older, more faded world. If you're comfortable with yourself, go solo. Solitude is the deepest well I know, and it's your right to drink from it."