denali backpacking

C

Carlos

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Jan 24, 2014
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I fell in love with Denali this past summer and now I want to backpack in the park. I tried to google information on areas that people find appealing to backpack for about 3 days, but I can't find anything with details. I don't want really gps paths, but instead recommendations on areas of interest for a 3-4 night backpack. For example, I loved the views from Polychrome Pass and I think it would be interesting to backpack further into the polychrome glaciers area, but from the road and from maps and from the couple of hikes that I did, I can't really see if there are corridors that access areas further into the park or I will just hit a wall (mountain or valley or large rive) and get me nowhere.
 
I have done a little bit of desktop exploring of Denali and one day I will make it back to the park.

The park website has descriptions of each of the backpacking units that describe the area along with potential problems
https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/backpacking-guide.htm

For example, unit 27 https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/unit27.htm


https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/backcountry.htm
  • Best-bets for beginners
    If this is your first off-trail backpacking trip, consider areas like Unit 1 (features a trail), Units 9-13, 18, 34 and 42.
  • Easy-to-navigate valleys and graveled river bars
    Generally units south of the park road meet this criteria, especially Units 6-13 (except 11, which is mostly rolling tundra hills). By heading south from the road, you're hiking toward the Alaska Range. These units may have river crossings, but navigation is comparatively simple and travel can be very fast.
  • Ridges with potential for amazing views
    Usually north of the park road, such as Units 25-30, 33-34, and the Kantishna region. Often there is brush at lower elevations, making navigation more difficult and travel much slower, but persevere through the brush, gain elevation, and look south for great views of the Alaska Range.
  • Super remote areas
    Units 21, 38-40, 44, and 87. These are not areas beginners should visit.
  • Valley glaciers
    Units 23, 44 and 87.
  • Accessible but little-used areas
    Units 2-3 and 16-17 are a short bus ride (or walk!) from the visitor center. Despite their proximity to the busy park entrance, very few people use these units. Expect some brush, particularly in Units 2-3. These are a great choice for adventurers who want to minimize their time on the bus, and/or see places seldom visited.
 
wsp_scott said:
I have done a little bit of desktop exploring of Denali and one day I will make it back to the park.

The park website has descriptions of each of the backpacking units that describe the area along with potential problems
https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/backpacking-guide.htm

For example, unit 27 https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/unit27.htm


https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/backcountry.htm
  • Best-bets for beginners
    If this is your first off-trail backpacking trip, consider areas like Unit 1 (features a trail), Units 9-13, 18, 34 and 42.
  • Easy-to-navigate valleys and graveled river bars
    Generally units south of the park road meet this criteria, especially Units 6-13 (except 11, which is mostly rolling tundra hills). By heading south from the road, you're hiking toward the Alaska Range. These units may have river crossings, but navigation is comparatively simple and travel can be very fast.
  • Ridges with potential for amazing views
    Usually north of the park road, such as Units 25-30, 33-34, and the Kantishna region. Often there is brush at lower elevations, making navigation more difficult and travel much slower, but persevere through the brush, gain elevation, and look south for great views of the Alaska Range.
  • Super remote areas
    Units 21, 38-40, 44, and 87. These are not areas beginners should visit.
  • Valley glaciers
    Units 23, 44 and 87.
  • Accessible but little-used areas
    Units 2-3 and 16-17 are a short bus ride (or walk!) from the visitor center. Despite their proximity to the busy park entrance, very few people use these units. Expect some brush, particularly in Units 2-3. These are a great choice for adventurers who want to minimize their time on the bus, and/or see places seldom visited.
Click to expand...
yes, I saw all that info in their website. I was hoping for any first hand knowledge of nice areas to hike (i know, the whole place is great :) ) and corridors between units. That is the hard part to figure out if I want to hike between units.
 
Hi Carlos,
We backpacked summer 2018 in Denali, during late August. We had permits for a total of 5 nights, Unit 12, 13 (two nights), 18 and then back to 13. We hiked down from the Eielson visitors center on a trail and then into Unit 12 essentially by following the Thorofare River, either on the river bed or the bench above it. Crossed into Unit 13 via Contact Creek (passed the backside of Mt. Eielson) and then down Wolverine Creek. We were unable to hike into Unit 18 due to heavy rain and more importantly fog (couldn't see much and didn't want to surprise any bears) but Unit 18 can be accessed via Glacier Creek. We hiked out via Glacier Creek and the bench above it, crossed the multiple braids of the Thorofare and back to the Eielson VC. Map and compass are essential as is being able to match the terrain you see with what's on the map. I've done a lot of backpacking and those 6 days, although not long in distance, are one of the highlights of my hiking career. Awesome views (saw the mountain one beautiful morning ), Muldow Glacier views are amazing, lots of wildlife (mainly grizzlies and caribou and one golden eagle that I swear was only 20 feet above my head) and of course, lots of rain. We had 30 straight hours at one point and the whole hike out was a washout. But, since we ended at Eielson VC it was easy to change clothes, warm up and get on a bus all in quick order. You might want to check out a book by Ike Waits about Denali hiking and photography. He has some good descriptions of navigation in various units and we found it helpful.
 
monica said:
Hi Carlos,
We backpacked summer 2018 in Denali, during late August. We had permits for a total of 5 nights, Unit 12, 13 (two nights), 18 and then back to 13. We hiked down from the Eielson visitors center on a trail and then into Unit 12 essentially by following the Thorofare River, either on the river bed or the bench above it. Crossed into Unit 13 via Contact Creek (passed the backside of Mt. Eielson) and then down Wolverine Creek. We were unable to hike into Unit 18 due to heavy rain and more importantly fog (couldn't see much and didn't want to surprise any bears) but Unit 18 can be accessed via Glacier Creek. We hiked out via Glacier Creek and the bench above it, crossed the multiple braids of the Thorofare and back to the Eielson VC. Map and compass are essential as is being able to match the terrain you see with what's on the map. I've done a lot of backpacking and those 6 days, although not long in distance, are one of the highlights of my hiking career. Awesome views (saw the mountain one beautiful morning ), Muldow Glacier views are amazing, lots of wildlife (mainly grizzlies and caribou and one golden eagle that I swear was only 20 feet above my head) and of course, lots of rain. We had 30 straight hours at one point and the whole hike out was a washout. But, since we ended at Eielson VC it was easy to change clothes, warm up and get on a bus all in quick order. You might want to check out a book by Ike Waits about Denali hiking and photography. He has some good descriptions of navigation in various units and we found it helpful.
Click to expand...
monica said:
Hi Carlos,
We backpacked summer 2018 in Denali, during late August. We had permits for a total of 5 nights, Unit 12, 13 (two nights), 18 and then back to 13. We hiked down from the Eielson visitors center on a trail and then into Unit 12 essentially by following the Thorofare River, either on the river bed or the bench above it. Crossed into Unit 13 via Contact Creek (passed the backside of Mt. Eielson) and then down Wolverine Creek. We were unable to hike into Unit 18 due to heavy rain and more importantly fog (couldn't see much and didn't want to surprise any bears) but Unit 18 can be accessed via Glacier Creek. We hiked out via Glacier Creek and the bench above it, crossed the multiple braids of the Thorofare and back to the Eielson VC. Map and compass are essential as is being able to match the terrain you see with what's on the map. I've done a lot of backpacking and those 6 days, although not long in distance, are one of the highlights of my hiking career. Awesome views (saw the mountain one beautiful morning ), Muldow Glacier views are amazing, lots of wildlife (mainly grizzlies and caribou and one golden eagle that I swear was only 20 feet above my head) and of course, lots of rain. We had 30 straight hours at one point and the whole hike out was a washout. But, since we ended at Eielson VC it was easy to change clothes, warm up and get on a bus all in quick order. You might want to check out a book by Ike Waits about Denali hiking and photography. He has some good descriptions of navigation in various units and we found it helpful.
Click to expand...


THANKS A LOT FOR THIS !!!! This is exactly what I wanted, feedback from people that have hiked in the backcountry. I do have Waits book, I have used it for day hikes on my recent trip (and next year's) but I neglected reading the parts about multi-day hikes. Thanks again !!!!
 
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